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I recently swapped my larger Godox 32x32 inch softbox for the smaller 24x24 inch model to better fit my workspace. The smaller size should be more manageable in this small space.  The Weeylite Ninja 400 light I'm using is very bright even at 1 percent power. This led me to a DIY project to create an additional diffusion layer for better light control. This article covers my review of the Godox 24x24 softbox, its assembly, and a basic guide on how I created a custom diffusion panel. The main piece of the Godox Softbox (my face realizing this didn't come with the mount) Reviewing the Godox 24x24 Softbox The softbox arrived in a compact carry bag. The product label lists the model as SFUV with a size of 60x60cm, which is approximately 24x24 inches. The kit includes the main foldable softbox, an inner diffusion panel, an outer diffusion panel, and the small carry bag. What the inside of the softbox looks like. This particular kit does not include the metal Bowens mount adapter. Thi...

Viltrox sent me this interesting two sided tube light to check out and make a video on. This overview follows my collaboration terms I’ve defined with brands. I usually keep the devices sent to me, but they have no say in the content of anything I create. If products sent to me are low quality I simply don’t make a video and will return it to the manufacturer at their own expense. The tube light from Viltrox. Watch the overview on YouTube. At the end of this article I have a full transcript if you prefer to read. Introduction: The Viltrox H18 tube light is a versatile lighting tool that offers both RGB and bi-color options. With its compact design and numerous features, this portable light provides flexibility for various lighting needs. In this article, we will explore the key features and specifications of the Viltrox H18 tube light. The light has two 1/4th-20 mounts. One on each end. Dual Lighting Options: The Viltrox H18 tube light features RGB lighting on one side and bi-color lig...

Viltrox Ninja 400 Get the Weeylite Bi-Color LED Video Light through my links: Amazon , B&H Photo Video , and eBay . As an affiliate of these shops, I earn from qualifying purchases!  Ethics Statement: Keep in mind throughout this article and related video that Weeylite sent me this video at no cost and I will be keeping the light. They had no say in the content of the video.  Weeylite is part of Viltrox. The company is popular for lenses and adapters such as the 0.71x EF to EF-M speed booster that I have.  Specifications from their website: Model: ninja 400 Dimming method: Host control/iphoneAPP/Bluetooth/DMX Color temperature: 2500K-8500K t 300(fixed) Brightness: 20% ~ 100% (Adjustable) Max.Brightness: 12750 LM Max.illuminance: 3570 Lux / 2m, 16700 LUX/1m. (Use the machine glossy condenser to test the data) Lamp beads: Constant power output, up to 150W Continue light time: About 1 hour (Lithium battery “BP-L60A” 14. 4V 5.4Ah) Group: 6 Group (A,B,C,D,E,F) Channel: 1~19 Color render...

I had a generally positive experience with the Boling P1 light Andycine sent me previously, so when they contacted me about trying their completely in-house R1 light, I was on-board.  The Andycine Boling P1 light. The lights are similar in build and interface, but the R1 is lower cost with fewer features. Sometimes simplicity is the way to go. The YouTube related video. Check out the light through my links: Amazon: https://amzn.to/3h1WpNW B&H: https://bhpho.to/38XGI7u Or consider the Andycine Boling P1 (My Video) : Amazon: https://amzn.to/2BSQp7G B&H: https://bhpho.to/32V6cP9   As an affiliate of these shops, I earn from qualifying purchases!  Official Specifications:  Color Temperature: 2500k-7000k Color Accuracy: 97 CRI, 95 TLCI Numbers of LEDs: 120 Integrated battery: 3600 mAh Battery Chemistry: Lithium-ion polymer (LiPo) Operating Voltage: 3.7 vdc Maximum Power Consumption: 10w Power Input Connector: Type-C USB 5 volt 2 amps Battery Working Time: 2 hou...

AndyCine sent this full RGB LED light with color temperature adjustment and 9 effects modes. I put the light through its paces in a mixture of use cases such as macro photography, vlogging, product photography, miniature scene and diorama timelapse/photo/video. I also tested out the light output compared to my Promaster and “Craphy” LED lights that are somewhat similar.  Lighting gear! Check current prices and other information here: Amazon: https://amzn.to/2BSQp7G B&H: https://bhpho.to/32V6cP9   As an affiliate of these shops, I earn from qualifying purchases!  Specifications: Model No: BL-P1 Charging Power: 12W Charging interface: Type-C 5V/9V/12V Qc3.0 Intelligent charge Battery Capacity: 7.4V 2930 mAh Output selection: 0-100% RGB Color Gamut: 0-360 full color Color accuracy: CRI 96, TLCI 97 CCT: 2500-8500k color temperature Intensity: 1480 lux at 0.5 meters Fastest charging time: 90 min Full power time: 140 min Lithium Ion Battery: 2930 mAh Button SET: Menu switch button FN: Mu...

I have an overview view of this reflector on YouTube. I have a small 12 inch Promaster reflector that has silver on one side and gold on the other. I also have a few Rogue filter gel rubber bands (2 work a lot better than one in this case). Put them together and it makes a pretty serviceable flash bounce. If you are interested in this product, find it on Amazon here . As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases!  Why I had never tried this before I don’t know… Basically strapping the reflector to the flash. Makes it multi-purpose. Check out the image below for a quick test of the setup: The Promaster reflector in its case. There are a lot of options added with a simple small reflector. A few things to note: The built-in bounce card also had the plastic diffusion panel covering the flash. In this case with a small room I think it worked a bit better than it would in most circumstances. The cloth diffuser/reflector has been my go-to accessory for the flash. I have used that ...

I’ve started doing off-camera lighting practice outside with the Nikon D600 and fully manual flash units. The sessions consist of self portraits with various styles of lighting and settings. I’ve done two so far and have plans for more. If you find my settings odd, take note that I have been shooting with half-stops instead of third-stops. It is easier because I don’t have to scroll through a bunch of values and more importantly, the notches on the meter are easier to understand. I shoot at least one stop under exposed, but more than likely between that and three stops. Even more so with the shots at f8 in my second session. Session #1: Two position-able lights on tripods. Flash were bare most of the time, but I also used the built-in wide angle diffusers and bounce cards at times. The lens I used was the Nikon 28mm f1.8g. Session #1 Example photos:  f3.3, 1/180th, ISO 50 f3.3, 1/180th, ISO 50 f3.3, 1/180th, ISO 50 You should be able to tell how I setup lights pretty easily with those ...

I put together a portable flash setup for a convention coming up. My plans here are to potentially use this as a secondary light source in more detailed photo sessions (assuming I have any). The nice thing about it is the portability and I’m also able to get around a few limitations of the gear being used. All of the items are things I’ve acquired in the past, so there wasn’t any inherent cost to get this going.  The related video on this setup. The setup consists of (current prices listed): Sony VCT-R100 tripod isn’t available anymore, but check out the new one called the Sony VCT-R640 . UNDFIND FishBomb Lens Filter and Accessory Case Yongnuo RF-603N flash triggers Adorama Camera PC to Hot Shoe Adapter with Connecting Cord Cold Shoe mount bracket (tripod >> pc sync hotshoe adapter, not the exact one I have) Yongnuo YN460-II manual flash isn’t available anymore so check out a newer model like the YN-560 IV . As an affiliate of these shops, I earn from qualifying purchases!  Not ...

I talk about camera flash communication methods (TTL vs E-TTL i-TTL p-TTL) as well as thyristor sensor based auto mode.  Flash talk Diagram for TTL and pre-flash based TTL methods: TTL and more advanced methods. Standard TTL: This was the original method of flash power control. It happens as the film/sensor is being exposed to light. There is a dedicated sensor near the film that monitors the reflected light off of the film/sensor and eventually tells the flash to “quench” (stop) outputting light. The nice thing about TTL is that it works with any lens and was generally pretty reliable. p-TTL, E-TTL, i-TTL, and similar systems that use pre-flash: This is the newer method that all of the camera manufacturers use now. The flash sends out a pre-flash burst of light (or multiple bursts) and records the results with the standard light meter built into the camera. So this all happens even before the mirror has been flipped up and of course before the sensor Thyristor auto flash: Some flash u...

If you have used add-on flash much, you probably realized that the light directly from the flash can cast harsh light onto your subject. To get around that you can bounce the flash, or use something to soften the light. I have three light modifiers that attach to a standard add-on flash unit that are designed to soften the light. My test today will demonstrate just how much of a comparative difference each one makes. Diffusers tested: STO-FEN Omni-Bounce diffuser (designed to fit my Sigma flash) Impact Universal Bounce diffuser Fotodiox 3.5 x 3.5 mini soft box diffuser Testing conditions: A green camera bag was placed on a light stand around 4 feet from the camera to act as a subject. The camera had a 14mm lens to maximize the possibility of vignetting. Each diffuser was tested with it facing directly toward the camera bag (direct) and tilted upward toward the ceiling (up). The room was small, so there was probably some amount of unavoidable light reflection. Lights were turned ...